Le Café des ministères
83 rue de l’Université, 75007
A Parisian canteen with a neo-bourgeois style cuisine, on the left bank, and even worse, at the very end of Boulevard Saint-Germain, behind the National Assembly – when all the parliamentary attachés now swear by Deliveroo. Very nice table served by Jean and Roxane Sévègnes.
01 47 05 43 62
17 rue de Rambouillet, 75012
It is rue Rambouillet, a stone’s throw from the Gare de Lyon, hence the name, Rambo. Ideal to avoid the SNCF regime on the train. No salient muscles, no knife between the teeth here (for the young team like John Rambo, “it’s not war”, but happy life for a sourced, lively cuisine (yes, it ferments quite well), seasonal and delicate. On Friday evening, carte blanche in six courses (38 euros!).
Closed on weekends.
Le Coucou Café
14, rue Bochart de Saron, 75009
Franck Baranger set down his cuckoo clock in place of Artisan, a 100% craft cocktail bar that delighted afterworkers and other thirsty nyctalopes in this fashionable 9th century district. The place is open 7 days a week from 9 a.m. to 11 p.m., from Wednesday to Saturday, and until 4 p.m. from Sunday to Tuesday. At the controls of the open kitchen, Pauline Labrousse, who moved from publishing to cooking, from Caillebotte to Coucou kitchens.
No reservation required
01 48 74 15 78
35 rue de Sambre-et-Meuse, 75010
Candide wants to be “a living and benevolent table”, it is a connection. Candid, because Alessandro Candido also wants to offer “the purest possible cuisine”, via sourced products (they work with Xavier Fender’s vegetables, and meat with Thomas Vecten and Clavisy’s Farm. And the olive oil comes from the family production of the Candidos. Daily formula at noon for 17 or 20 euros. A la carte in the evening, count about forty euros. Without the wines.
Closed on weekends
Fleur de Pavé
5 rue Paul Lelong, 75002
This is Sylvain Sendra’s new address, ex-Itineraries. Sarah, his wife, winner of the Hostess Omnivore 2017 award, did everything, the decoration, the site follow-up, the wine list, and then she left. “This is Sylvain’s restaurant,” she says. There is not much left of the late Mémère Paulette, make way for a restaurant Années Folles version Foujita, black and white, glass and wood. A counter on open kitchen, a discreet alcove, a few tables, where the vegetable is at the party.
01 40 26 38 87
21 rue de la Villette, 75019
After months of work, Taku Sekine and Florent Ciccoli – the chef of Dersou and the chef of the Café du Coin, Omnivorian addresses in devil’s name – opened Cheval d’Or, a New Chinese from Beauvilliers. And future Parisian bistronomic dragon. The open kitchen distills its charcoal scents, the steam of the (formidable) Char siu bao with pork, the successful frying of the scallops in curry.
4 rue Tiquetonne, 75002
Three tables kissing on a tiny terrace on rue Tiquetonne. It’s unlikely, but it can’t go wrong. It is necessary to stop, for a long time, at the Finder. And let yourself be carried away by the benevolence of Etienne Madelin. The colossus manages like a chef in his tiny kitchen to deliver “little dishes” (northern scorpion fish in ceviche, kumquat and slivered pig, green hummus, cumin for us that day) more worked than in the average wine bar, and distributes rare happiness in the glasses in his pocket shop all in mosaics, even in the graphic identity of the place.
01 42 21 31 01
80 Rue Sedaine, 75011
We knew the David Rougier de l’Etna from Odéon, he has been back for almost two years now in this Coup d’oeil, a deep bar, as is his wine selection. The cuisine plays on the bistro slot at lunchtime and plates to share in the evening: Galician octopus / cebettes or artichokes pepper / Chou romanesco and soya vinaigrette.
01 43 57 59 68
La Retro Bottega
12 Rue Saint-Bernard, 75011
The Retro Bottega or free dining cellar where the chef and the wine merchant follow the mood and the products that make it to the kitchen. The boss? From Puglia and Naples, half and half. Mixing and meeting of particular culinary and wine cultures. We eat friggitelli (small green peppers) fried in salt and pepper, Nodini di Gioia del glue (stuffed pasta), asparagus and a few zucchini flowers sprinkled with black olives – our favourite. With this, nearly a hundred references of wines in biodynamic or natural, a lot of Italian, of course!
01 74 64 17 39